Paradis provence shalini kumar, the creator of s h a l i n i, jardin nocturne, amorem rose and the new paradis provence, was born in bombay, india and raised in london. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by clara molloy called 22 perfumers. This perfume is rare, but beautiful, and we love to support really beautiful perfumes.
Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber. Because youd be forgetting that maurice roucel, with his bon vivant moustaches and his big comforting paws fantasizing here, is also the author of one of the most austere, haughty, melancholy scents on the market, serge lutens iris silver mist. Join facebook to connect with maurice roucel and others you may know. Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as. Edwards 1998 perfume legends was the first book to take us behindthescenes of the fragrance industry, offering rare interviews with some of the most legendary perfumers discussing the most iconic french fragrances.
Fumerie parfumerie is a portlandbased perfume retailer specializing in niche and independent fragrances for men and women. I stand at the end of the long, elegant, crystalandsilverlaid dinner table at the carlyle hotel on madison avenue in manhattan. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the world more open and connected. Sounds like the perfume of unfinished business, but decades later, no one is talking about it. However, it was not published until 1971, a year after his death. Aug 16, 2011 maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. Made by maurice roucel in 1995, this is a unique throwback to those elegant, supremely french perfumes of yore when ladies who lunched wore couture, carried hermes bags, and wore fragrant statements that left an emphatic presence in the room behind them. It is especially illuminating on the kind of balance a great and successful creative perfumer attempts to strike between needed commercialism and his reflection on art.
When i scented it i started wondering why i had been looking for. Paradis provence by shalini at indigo perfumery paradis provence is the essence of the land we call provence, paradise on earth. Maurice roucel musc ravageur as it is officially called followed one year later and the rest is history. Shalini shalini was created for the designer shalini kumar by maurice roucel, the perfumer who brought us such scents as musc ravageur, iris silver mist, 24 faubourg and tocade.
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose french. One of perfumerys brightest stars is undoubtedly the legendary maurice roucel, presently of symrise. Jan 20, 2014 the format of the 2007 book 22 perfumers. Roucel smoothed every facet like a french ariadne spinning gauzy silk, surrounded by the dewy radiance or neroli and and lily of the valley and a pinch of spicy coriander hinting in the first while to the lavish greenery of gardenia. Maurice roucel with notes of lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, cloves, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, guaiac wood and cedar. Grazia had six french perfume creators or noses as theyre called in the industry each compile a list of their top 10 perfumes, excluding their own creations. Ive been wearing musc ravageur for almost 10 years. The native french won the prix francois coty and the oscar of perfume, among others. Dans tes bras has arranged a usual array of popular perfume notes into one of. His work is a unique combination of creativity, passion and expertise. Maurice roucel is one of my favourite perfumers, as well. Before joining symrise, roucel worked for several renowned fragrance companies. Olfactive studios next release was recently unveiled at milans esxence exhibition. It was written in 191914, and revised in 1932 and 19591960.
Having launched the republican journal legalite in 1870, rouvier, a supporter of leon gambettaone of the founding fathers of the third. Having created masterpieces for guerlain, hermes and gucci, maurice roucel s fragrances rank among our favorites. I admire that he never repeats himself, is always in search for a new way to paint a fragrant painting. Dans tes bras in your arms was created by maurice roucel in 2008, it is the second one by this perfumer for editions continue reading. Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading highly recommended read. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle a.
A lepoque, nombreux etaient encore les parfumeurs a ne pas etre issus duniversites specialisees mais a apprendre leur metier sur le terrain, au contact dautres parfumeurs aguerris. Thats a shame because an existing fragrance opportunity that intersects with music and technology is right under their noseand the fragrance industrys. The design, reminiscent of a butterfly wing, echoes the preciousness of the fragrance. For a thorough list of his accomplishments, check out our maurice roucel page. Jun 04, 2015 maurice roucel takes musc ravageur out of the bedroom and into the nursery, refashioning it as helmut lang edp. What perfumes would you pair with characters in books moviesshows. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by.
Dans tes bras by maurice roucel, the new frederic malle ive only sniffed this on a scent strip no skin tests allowed. Symrises master perfumer, genuine artist perfumer, sensual aesthete of the exclusive raw materials. I must admit it was practically love at first sniff, and one of the very rare occasions in which i didnt apply the three trial rule. Gucci envy by maurice roucel for gucci 1997 australian. Yes, these perfumes are not cheap, and i do not know whether they are distributed in russia or in.
Master perfumer at symrise, maurice roucel is considered as one of the best perfumers of his time. Maurice roucel was the winner of the prix francois coty in 2002. A book on the exhibition created jointly with the musee. It had left me with the impression of an old and musty fragrance. During this time he began an apprenticeship under henri robert, the then inhouse parfumeur at chanel. After discovering maurice roucel s perfumes such as tocade, 24 faubourg, linstant, insolence, musc ravageur and many more you can also discover his sense of humor, earthiness, and intelligence in this interview given to symrise, monsieur roucel, perfumes classically consist of smells from meadows and forests, fruits and flowers, water and wood. Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which runs against current fads. Symrise perfumer maurice roucel presents his work at the museum.
Interview maurice roucel le chromatographe youtube. Jul 01, 2016 i was like that listener when i declared maurice roucel to be my favourite perfumer two years ago, partly because he was one of the very few highprofile perfumers whose name i could remember due to crncntws, cant remember nonchinese names too well syndrome, and also he was the nose of one of my favourite perfumes, le labos jasmin 17. Francis kurkdjian interview les belles rencontres du printemps printemps paris 2015 duration. An old friend i dont know about you, but sometimes my senses get worn out from trying new things. A tale of homosexual love in early 20thcentury england, it follows maurice hall from his schooldays through university and beyond. And when i say coffee table book i mean it, it covers half of my coffee table. At the opening, shalini parfum by maurice roucel unveils tuberose as the centerpiece of the fragrance and m. Maurice roucel creates latest ferrari scent, scuderia ferrari forte.
Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest. Perfumier frederic malle was born into the world of fragrances. Maurice roucel started as a chemist at chanel in 1973. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse. Finding the perfect gift can be an interesting and wonderful experience. Its an amazing accomplishment when you think about it it shares the same basic dna as musc ravageur, and even smells somewhat similar and yet the feel of one is a hundred million miles away from the other. Still luminous, its as though the fragrances white petals are glowing under moonlight. Not only did gallimard publish the best authors in its time, but its books also look like. The fragrance industry has recognized him with numerous accolades and awards and since 2011, maurice roucel is chevalier des arts et des lettres. Upon the completion of his studies with robert, roucel joined quest international, where he worked for twelve years. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with. Frederic malle and his perfume designers want the same things. Todays perfumes are redolent of caramel, fresh ginger, grapefruit, pink peppercorn, even justbaked bread. The book was the brainchild of clara molloy, who founded the niche perfume brand memo the same year that the book came out. Edward morgan forster 18791970 wrote maurice as a relatively young man, aged 34, at a time when old europe was starting to fall apart. Maurice roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies iff, quest, dragoco and presently symrise. Maurice roucel made guerlain insolence edt as a modern version of apres londee. I kept a perfume article from grazia france magazine that i read a while back and here is a summary of its contents.
He started his career at chanel, where he spent 6 years and discovered the mysteries of hauteparfumerie. Roucel began his career in perfumery on february 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at chanel for 6 years. On perfume making malle, frederic, kakanias, konstantin, malle. Truth be told, the atmosphere, in lartisan parfumeur s parisian flagship store just behind the louvre was conducive to impulse buying. Roucel started his training under henry robert, who at the time shaped chanels fragrance world as its perfumer. He became a perfumer in 1978, and has since worked for iff, dragoco and quest. Maurice roucel began his career in the perfume industry at chanel in 1973 as the head chromatography chemist. Shalini perfume is part of our sample program, however, due to the limitation and high concentration of the perfume, the sample vial contains only one drop for a single application. Composed by maurice roucel as an act of seduction and generosity, musc ravageur is an uncompromising oriental, which trumps current fads. Feb 22, 2011 ive read several times that lartisan parfumeur perfumes dont last and this hasnt been my experience with them. These people were usually given a temporary job in the perfume industry.
My three premier figuier, passage denfer and vanilia all last on me as well as the best of them. At the time, when i started out in 1973, there were only people from grasse in the perfume industry. Flechier, olivia giacobetti, dominique ropion, maurice roucel, edmond roudnitska. Nov 05, 2014 are we ready for another turn with maurice roucel after what happened with muscs ravageur.
Indigo perfumery presents the fourth beautiful s h a l i n i pure parfum. Brian eno, maurice roucel and the perfume of unfinished. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has remained. Our ancestors came from outer space hardcover 1978. Lolita lempicka marc jacobs montale moschino mugler narciso rodriguez.
Every year you have 300400 new perfume challenges, said roucel. Fields of blue lavande, thyme, orange blossoms, sunflowers following the golden sun, ancient olive trees, the sky that turns pink as it touches the azure of the mediterranean and amorous nights drenched in jasmine. Explore free books, like the victory garden, and more browse now. Maurice roucel is a perfumer whose work i admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his big brand creations. Maurice rouvier, french statesman who had some success in balancing the budget during periods of his seven terms as minister of finance and two terms as premier. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse best perfumes comprehensive guide by perfume note. Although his legendary olfactory style is now characterized for the most part by opulent sensuality sprung from his preference for musk, white flowers and amber the precise methodology of his original profession has. Shalini kumar wanted the perfume to evoke her childhood memories of tuberose and butterflies in her garden. Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as a perfume technician in charge of blending formulas or chemist. He worked at chanel for six years as the lead chromatography chemist. A sensual perfume, powerful yet perfectly controlled, dramatic and mysterious.
Maurice is probably the first literary work of fiction to deal with male homosexuality in such an open, sincere fashion. Not only does apres londee not give the impression that it was created more then a century ago. Shalini sounds like a perfect white bouquet, and while big white florals dont always work for me, those that do become true friends of mine. While many industry perfumers complete significant chemistry training as part of their studies, maurice roucel was hired entirely for his technical expertise, spending years with chanel in the 70s as the head chromatography chemist before a deep interest in the artistic side of the business led him to begin training as a perfumer with chanels inhouse perfumer. Dans tes bras in your arms, whose name hints at intimate embraces, straddles the line between an invitation to caress and. Roucel created jardin nocturne as an ode to a fragrant evening in a garden. He is the author of hermes 24, faubourg, frederic malle musc ravageur and serge lutens iris silver mist, among many others. Musc ravageur, by maurice roucel for frederic malle blogger. Interview with perfumer maurice roucel fragrant reading. Like shalini parfum, jardin nocturne is a potent white floral with the most decadent opening of jasmine and saffron. Roucel began in 1973 while working at chanel as an apprentice and then went on to work at iff, quest, and dragoco.